High Mountain Oolong: How to Choose and Brew It

In short: high mountain oolong (gao shan cha) is a lightly oxidized Taiwanese oolong grown above about 1,000 meters, where cool air and mist slow the leaves down and make them sweeter and more floral. Look for tightly rolled jade-green pearls from named mountains like Ali Shan or Mei Shan. Brew it with water around 195-205°F (90-96°C) and re-steep the same leaves four to six times.

If you have tried a grassy green tea and a malty black tea and want something in between, high mountain oolong is a great next step. It is creamy, flowery and almost never bitter, and one spoonful of leaves keeps giving cup after cup.

What is high mountain oolong?

Oolong sits between green and black tea: the leaves are bruised and partly oxidized before they are rolled and dried. "High mountain" (gao shan in Chinese) is a Taiwanese term for oolong grown on mountain slopes, usually from about 1,000 meters up to 2,600 meters.

At that height the days are short and cool and the slopes are wrapped in fog much of the year. The tea bushes grow slowly, and slow growth gives thicker, softer leaves with more natural sweetness and aroma. Most high mountain oolong is only lightly oxidized and lightly roasted, so it keeps a green, floral character with a buttery texture.

The leaves are rolled into tight little pearls. When you brew them, they open into whole leaves, often two or three leaves and a bud still attached to the stem. To learn about the wider family, see our complete guide to Taiwanese oolong.

The famous mountains and how they taste

Each mountain has its own climate, and tea lovers can taste the difference. Here are the names you will see most often:

Our Ali Shan High Mountain is hand-picked and lightly roasted, which adds a deeper, darker floral note to the classic buttery sweetness. Mei Shan High Mountain is greener and brighter, with a creamy texture and a hint of buttered green beans.

How to choose high mountain oolong

When you shop for high mountain oolong, a few signs help you separate a great tea from an average one:

• Named origin. "Taiwan oolong" alone tells you little. A named mountain such as Ali Shan or Mei Shan means you know what you are getting.
• Leaf look. Tight, glossy, evenly rolled pearls in deep jade to dark green. Lots of dust or broken bits means the tea was handled roughly or is old.
• Aroma in the bag. Fresh high mountain oolong smells sweet and flowery even dry. A flat or musty smell is a bad sign.
• Roast level. Unroasted or lightly roasted tea is the most floral and green. A medium roast tastes warmer, with honey and toasted notes. Neither is better: pick what you like.
• Harvest season. Spring and winter harvests are the most prized for their aroma and sweetness.

If you enjoy roasted flavors, also try a rock oolong such as High Mountain Qilan Oolong. It grows around 1,600 meters in China's Wuyi mountains and is charcoal-roasted, so it tastes of roasted nuts and orchid rather than fresh flowers. Browse the full range in our oolong tea collection.

How to brew high mountain oolong

High mountain oolong is forgiving, but it really shines with hot water and short, repeated steeps. Here are two easy methods.

Gongfu style (gaiwan or small teapot)

1. Warm a 100-150 ml gaiwan or small teapot with hot water, then pour it out.
2. Add 5-7 g of leaves (about 2 heaping teaspoons).
3. Pour water at 195-205°F (90-96°C) over the leaves and discard it after 5 seconds. This quick rinse wakes up the rolled pearls.
4. Steep for 45-60 seconds and pour everything into a cup or pitcher.
5. Re-steep 4-6 times, adding 10-15 seconds each round as the leaves unfurl.

Western style (mug or teapot)

1. Use 3 g of leaves (about 1 heaping teaspoon) per 8 oz (240 ml) of water.
2. Pour water at 195°F (90°C) and steep for 3-4 minutes.
3. Strain, then steep the same leaves again for 4-5 minutes. Most high mountain oolongs give at least two or three good mugs.

A few tips: use fresh filtered water, leave room in the pot for the leaves to open (they grow four to five times in size), and do not leave the leaves sitting in water between steeps.

Storing high mountain oolong

Lightly oxidized oolong is closer to green tea than black tea, so keep it away from air, light, heat and strong smells. An airtight tin in a cool cupboard works well. For the brightest floral aroma, enjoy it within about 6-12 months of opening.

Frequently asked questions

Is high mountain oolong the same as Ali Shan oolong?

Ali Shan is one type of high mountain oolong. "High mountain" covers several Taiwanese growing areas above about 1,000 meters, including Ali Shan, Mei Shan, Shan Lin Xi and Li Shan, and each has its own flavor.

Does high mountain oolong have caffeine?

Yes. Like all teas from the Camellia sinensis plant it contains caffeine, usually somewhere between green and black tea per cup. Short gongfu steeps give smaller amounts in each small cup.

Why is high mountain oolong more expensive?

The bushes grow slowly in cool weather, yields are small, and the leaves are usually hand-picked on steep slopes. You also get many infusions from one serving, so the price per cup is lower than it looks.

Can I cold brew high mountain oolong?

Yes. Put 8-10 g of leaves in 1 liter of cold filtered water and leave it in the fridge for 8-10 hours. The result is sweet, floral and very smooth.